aries
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Post by aries on Nov 6, 2018 20:07:36 GMT -8
IMG_1294 by mark gordon, on Flickr Hi all, slowly moving forward. Where did the lipstick go? WOW guess now we know what holds the closet on so tight. We'll possibly be needing new skin for this side. Any one have ideas on how to patch holes and save? Waiting on the weather to pull roof skin off and remove closet and counter. All windows pulled and are in fairly good condition except corrosion on bottom sill. Thought of possibly having them powder coated silver metallic. As new paint shop opened in town, has any one tried this coating for long term prevention?
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aries
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Post by aries on Nov 6, 2018 20:32:52 GMT -8
IMG_1305 by mark gordon, on Flickr I really liked rin-tin's idea of encasing wall panels for durability as these seem to be the first to rot. So pulled out old 40's bear claw and instead of 1 1/4" opted for 1 1/2" as feel more is needed for structural. I have fender boards already notched and trying to adjust jointer. Will probably have to ultimately try PT's way. Any ideas how to notch out quicker than dragging my skill saw across as I often thought of? Thanks all for your input and ideas. Mark
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Post by vikx on Nov 6, 2018 22:00:14 GMT -8
Show us that side. How bad is it? A few holes can be easily disguised....
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PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Nov 7, 2018 17:44:25 GMT -8
I covered a few screw holes like that with stainless panhead screws. They serve no purpose but to cover the holes. You could find a vintage trailer club badge to cover them with, etc. People here have talked about placing waterproof tape behind the holes and filling with JB weld. I've had success with bondo too when applied properly but you're talking about detail sanding and painting to match what's there or repainting the whole panel.
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aries
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Post by aries on Nov 7, 2018 18:49:29 GMT -8
IMG_1322 by mark gordon, on Flickr The curbside panel doesn't appear too bad. How can someone go about straightening panel somewhat better or is it even possible? Not sure what sealed vent panel on center band may have been used for? The small electric fridge was behind this and there's a rectangular vent on roof above. The CC&R PPL patrol more in warm weather, yet still have to be wary of removing too much all at once. There appears to be some kind of excessive amount of clear coat or something on top panel. Seems like sections of sloppy framing may have been completed on a Friday or past tenants. On a positive note, still glad we bought it. What an adventure! Happy we are members of this informative site.
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aries
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Post by aries on Nov 7, 2018 18:57:47 GMT -8
IMG_1284 by mark gordon, on Flickr Welded two pieces of 3/8 angle and finally some solid steps. I like that the trailer sits a little higher for some of these wild roads in PNW.
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aries
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Post by aries on Nov 7, 2018 19:09:07 GMT -8
IMG_1319 by mark gordon, on Flickr Trailer will be a lot lighter with 200 lb snow coat skin off. Would like to go continuous roof aluminum with side vents as have seen this on another trailer seems less maintenance with yearly caulking.
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aries
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Post by aries on Nov 7, 2018 19:16:48 GMT -8
I covered a few screw holes like that with stainless panhead screws. They serve no purpose but to cover the holes. You could find a vintage trailer club badge to cover them with, etc. People here have talked about placing waterproof tape behind the holes and filling with JB weld. I've had success with bondo too when applied properly but you're talking about detail sanding and painting to match what's there or repainting the whole panel. Thanks PT that sounds like a good idea. Have thought about using aluminum tape behind and small fiberglass patch in front. Has anyone ever tried this?
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Post by vikx on Nov 7, 2018 20:57:01 GMT -8
It doesn't look bad, you're right.
I use sticky waterproofing tape on the backside of many flaws. It's sold at Home Depot and Nashua brand. Whatever tape you use, it MUST be very sticky. Think about it: if the sun hits it, you want it to stay stuck...
From what I've been told, it's better not to use tape if you're going to Bondo but I'm not experienced myself. One person said the Bondo didn't stick as well if it didn't ooze thru?
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PT
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Post by PT on Nov 7, 2018 21:07:28 GMT -8
The vent on the center band and the one above it on the roof were for the original propane refrigerator. If you’re talking about a localized bend from an impact I never had any luck trying to straighten them out and don’t think it’s possible. Aluminum stretches and “oilcans” instead of popping back into shape. If it’s a gradual outward bulge of the wall the aluminum would probably straighten if the underlying issue with the framing is fixed.
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Post by vikx on Nov 7, 2018 22:46:19 GMT -8
We 'accidentally' popped a dent in the back of the Bellwood. Vicx was working around the window opening with the heat gun and suddenly, the dent popped out and is still out 8 years later... SOMETIMES it works.
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aries
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Aloha 15'
Nov 8, 2018 20:48:31 GMT -8
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Post by aries on Nov 8, 2018 20:48:31 GMT -8
Thanks,,I'll try the sticky tape idea,,have a lot of allmetal and fiberglass left over from previous body jobs,,I've just never worked aluminum panels,,will try flex test with fiberglass first as tends not to show thru paint in colder weather like most bondos.Found that some local second hand shops have really nice figured panels on there old sliding,folding and full size doors,possibly good for closets,cabinets etc.
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Aloha 15'
Nov 9, 2018 6:10:26 GMT -8
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Post by youngbloodhawk on Nov 9, 2018 6:10:26 GMT -8
Do you guys not use Standard heat shrink Methods to take out Oil canning. Shrinking disc or rosebud torch Then Quinch?
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Post by vikx on Nov 9, 2018 20:25:42 GMT -8
Please explain Youngbloodhawk. I have used heat on aluminum but have to be very careful because sometimes it will bubble beyond repair. Are you talking about aluminum?
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Aloha 15'
Nov 10, 2018 6:16:47 GMT -8
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Post by youngbloodhawk on Nov 10, 2018 6:16:47 GMT -8
Didn’t mean to sound well Like it did. If I were trying to repair an oilcanning Spot on an aluminum race car hood I would use a shrinking disc on an air Tool. Friction heats the stretched spot And a quick application of a wet rag Shrinks it to original. On a less critical panel A propane torch used w common sense Can be used Heat high point gently and quinch. I have used a heat gun in some situations 👍 Hot as hell Then quinch You must be gentle with aluminum No torch unless very experienced Shrinking disc is best for aluminum
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