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Post by winneywhitestar on Jul 8, 2018 3:37:50 GMT -8
I took someone's advice and used a hot gun and elbow grease to attack goop on roof. Had to get it off of the corner trim so that could be removed. What it revealed has me thinking the PO did maybe a roof patch. On either sides of the roof (near rear and front) there are a row of screws that connect what looks like a galvanized sheet which several panels with what are think are called locked seams. In the inside of travel the rear part of the ceiling is exposed and the beam that the screws are attached to has water damage. (see photo) On the rear side of the roof the galvanized panel lies on top of the corrugated skin (green in photo) On the front side and from the roof view (that part of ceiling not exposed in interior) the galvanized piece is attached underneath. I thought roof skins were one contiguous panels locked together. But if you notice the original skin exposed on interior looks like a clean factory cut. Would a roof be attached like this on purpose? Or is this a diy project that just provided more water access to interior? FYI: the PO put tar like substances over the corner trim and the screws connecting the galvanized panel and around vents, etc. For the most part on the rest of the entire roof the gray substances comes are very easily. However, I don't want to put the time in if this roof really needs to be replaced for long term longevity. I live in Maine. Have a budget. Any thoughts on roof replacement costs for skin? Actual camper measurements 7.75 x 13 ft  roof copy1 by PJ Lassek, on Flickr  interior ceiling wet by PJ Lassek, on Flickr  Exterior Roof.2JPG by PJ Lassek, on Flickr  interior ceiling by PJ Lassek, on Flickr |
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Post by vikx on Jul 8, 2018 20:41:04 GMT -8
I really think this needs to be replaced. Steel roofs can work if they're properly coated, but this one is really rusted out...
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 10, 2018 4:18:33 GMT -8
I agree with vikx, the roof needs replaced. The last owner tried everything to seal it but the decay was too extensive.
I'm not a fan of steel roofs. If you plan on keeping the camper, I'd invest in aluminum at least for the roof.
On a side note, I've removed goop from a roof and I won't do it again. Too much work. A member did some videos on how to replace a roof: cannedhamtrailers.com
Shipping is a big part of the expense so a local source (if you have one) would be best.
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Jul 27, 2018 19:37:46 GMT -8
I purchased mill finish aluminum (.040 thickness) from a semi trailer repair place near me. It was around $13 a running foot off of a roll and was 92"? wide. A little heavier than original, but it's what was available in my area. (Southern Indiana)
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 28, 2018 9:49:04 GMT -8
Post photos when it's installed.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 2, 2018 16:23:37 GMT -8
I purchased mill finish aluminum (.040 thickness) from a semi trailer repair place near me. It was around $13 a running foot off of a roll and was 92"? wide. A little heavier than original, but it's what was available in my area. (Southern Indiana) The only real problem you'll have is doing the fold over and then stapling it. Most staples will not go through that stuff. But that's OK. You can nail it instead... That's how they did it in the old days. Use small 3/4 inch long nails. As thin as will penetrate. That will work just fine. It will be a bit harder to bend but I tried it and got it to bend with a little extra elbow grease. |
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kamhawk
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Post by kamhawk on Aug 3, 2018 6:29:56 GMT -8
I used .040 aluminum as well and had no trouble bending or stapling through. Here are a few pictures. I reused the original aluminum for the sides and replaced the roof, front and back with the .040. I had a local sheet metal shop put the pleats in the front and back metal.  IMG_20180603_184814182_HDR by KamHawk, on Flickr  IMG_20180603_184755057_HDR by KamHawk, on Flickr |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 3, 2018 7:59:12 GMT -8
I used .040 aluminum as well and had no trouble bending or stapling through. Here are a few pictures. I reused the original aluminum for the sides and replaced the roof, front and back with the .040. I had a local sheet metal shop put the pleats in the front and back metal. IMG_20180603_184814182_HDR by KamHawk, on Flickr IMG_20180603_184755057_HDR by KamHawk, on Flickr Glad to hear of your success. One must make sure to use chisel tooth staples to be able to get through the thicker metal AND the side metal... |
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Aug 3, 2018 20:34:31 GMT -8
WhitneyK kamhawk Did either of you purchase your aluminum from a chain? I have called semi repair shops near me and they obviously don't repair the trailers. Do those shops have some type of special name? How did you find them?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 4, 2018 8:26:40 GMT -8
WhitneyK kamhawk Did either of you purchase your aluminum from a chain? I have called semi repair shops near me and they obviously don't repair the trailers. Do those shops have some type of special name? How did you find them? I don't know where to get that stuff. I tried out the .040 through Hemet Valley RV when we were trying to figure out what the best thickness for thicker metal would work best on our travel trailers. We settled on the .030 and everyone that has used it is very pleased with it. |
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Post by kamhawk on Aug 6, 2018 6:30:22 GMT -8
Corvettcrzy, I purchased my aluminum from a local horse trailer company. Before I found the local place, I was looking at a truck repair place called Jim Hawk Truck Trailers (that is a chain)that carries the .040 aluminum. I believe it comes 103" wide by whatever length you need. The cost was around $13 a running foot. Mobiltec, Here are the staples I used. I know they are not chisel tooth, but they seemed to work with very little trouble.  IMG_20180805_073607900 by KamHawk, on Flickr |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 7, 2018 6:17:39 GMT -8
Corvettcrzy, I purchased my aluminum from a local horse trailer company. Before I found the local place, I was looking at a truck repair place called Jim Hawk Truck Trailers (that is a chain)that carries the .040 aluminum. I believe it comes 103" wide by whatever length you need. The cost was around $13 a running foot. Mobiltec, Here are the staples I used. I know they are not chisel tooth, but they seemed to work with very little trouble. IMG_20180805_073607900 by KamHawk, on Flickr The 3/4 inch staples from Dewalt did not work for me with .030 roof fold over on .030 side skin. |
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Post by danrhodes on Aug 7, 2018 8:47:48 GMT -8
Corvettcrzy, I purchased my aluminum from a local horse trailer company. Before I found the local place, I was looking at a truck repair place called Jim Hawk Truck Trailers (that is a chain)that carries the .040 aluminum. I believe it comes 103" wide by whatever length you need. The cost was around $13 a running foot. Mobiltec, Here are the staples I used. I know they are not chisel tooth, but they seemed to work with very little trouble. IMG_20180805_073607900 by KamHawk, on Flickr I used those same staples for my whole trailer and found they pulled out quite easily. I think whatever they are coated with is slippery and I just had to redo a section of skin where the heat had expanded the metal and the Dewalt staples pulled right out. |
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kamhawk
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Post by kamhawk on Aug 7, 2018 13:16:08 GMT -8
Good to know. I will give a little tug to see how they hold. I know my shop has exceeded 100 plus degrees this summer and I have not noticed any staples pulling out due to metal expansion. But, it's not in direct sun light.....I don't know if that makes any difference.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 7, 2018 15:01:44 GMT -8
Good to know. I will give a little tug to see how they hold. I know my shop has exceeded 100 plus degrees this summer and I have not noticed any staples pulling out due to metal expansion. But, it's not in direct sun light.....I don't know if that makes any difference. 100 degrees is 100 degrees. That will cause the metal to expand. Out in the sun it will be worse because the metal will heat up even hotter in the sun. I use A LOT of staples in my seams. And I always replace that wood that the metal lip is being stapled into. You can't just staple into the studs and expect it to hold for long. 3 inches apart max. |
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